You’ve probably encountered the multicolored, livelycotton fabrics known aschintz at some point, and your response likely veered toward one of two very different feelings. The eye-catching SouthAsian textiles, which originated inIndia and were prized byEurope’s elite classes for centuries, continue to mesmerize and polarize the world today with their intense,floral designs.
For some, the termchintz conjures images of overtly feminine, grandmillennial interiors—explosions of busily patternedfloral fabric overtakingbed covers, curtains, and walls. For others,chintz suggests a sophisticated, old-world nod to the intricacies of British living—a symbol of classicEnglish country homes. But what, exactly, ischintz? There’s more to the celebrated fabric than meets the eye.
What is chintz?
Chintz is a cottontextile that emerged fromIndia in the 16th century, featuring colorful,woodblock-printed, painted, glazed, or stained designs, typically on a pale or plain white cotton background. Celebrated for its vibrancy, intricacy, and resilience, traditionalIndian chintz was used to makepalampores—light, airy cotton bed coverings—tent panels, and other items featuring botanical or pastoral imagery (including still popular designmotifs like the ubiquitous Tree of Life).
A Swedish-style bedroom in a Florida home decorated by John Stefanidis features a circa-1900 French tub chair and a fanciful chintz bed canopy.
“Chintz, as we know it today, is a continuation of a story that began in the 17th century, when printed Indiantextiles were first introduced to the West byDutch andPortuguese traders,” says Sumitra Mattai, vice presidentofKravet and design director forLee Jofa andBrunschwig & Fils. “Broadly defined,chintz refers to a floral print that has been finished to give the surface of the fabric a polished sheen, often used for home furnishings.Chintz fabrics make fabulous drapery orupholstery, especially [on] accent furniture.”
“It’s a refined and elegant fabric, typically characterized by its smooth,glazed finish and intricate, oftenfloral patterns,” says Jo Littlefair, cofounder and director of Londoninterior design studioGoddard Littlefair. (Glazing refers to a polished sheen made either by pressing cotton through rollers or applying resin to create luster.) “It adds a touch of sophistication and classic charm to any space,” Littlefair adds.
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Defining elements of chintz
“Chintz designs evoke a cheerful mood. They offer a freshness and charm, especially when printed on a clean, ivory ground,” Mattai says. Typically botanical or floral in theme,chintz can be identified by its multicolored, repeating patterns, which incorporate leaves, plants, flowers, trees, gardens, or animals set against a plain background. The sturdy, often shiny material is also notable for its stain-resistance compared to other fabrics of similar strength.
Originally, the termchintz referred to the complex, colored patterns printed on the treatedcotton fabric, many of which were carefully (tediously) created by hand in one of two ways: usingwooden blocks like stamps or via the natural, albeit complicated, 23-step dying process calledkalamkari. Though many think it’s the pattern or sheen that determines whether a fabric ischintz, that’s not exactly the case.Chintz doesn’t necessarily have to be glazed, though manychintzes are. What makes acotton fabric “chintz” is the fact that the cotton has been treated withmordants and resists—substances designed to helpnatural dyes adhere to the cotton.
Why is it calledchintz?
Chintz comes from theHindi wordchint, which means “speckled,” “variegated,” “spotted,” or “sprayed.” Though the term originally referred only to printedcotton fabrics treated in a particular way, it later expanded to represent a broader range. Now, mostEnglish speakers use the term chintz to describe cloth,upholstery, wallpapers, and garments featuring intricatefloral patterns and heavy glazing.
What is the difference betweenchintz andcalico?
Though sometimes used interchangeably to describe colorfulcotton fabrics, chintz and calico are not synonyms.Calico originally referred to thecotton cloth bought and sold in Calicut, a port city onIndia’sCoromandel Coast. In the 1600s,Indian artisans began trading elaborately printed, painted, and glazedcalicos featuring flowers, birds, and other natural motifs. These more decadent, decorative calico textiles eventually became known inEnglish aschintz. In other words,chintz is a type of printedcalico (but not allchintz is made fromcalico). These days, the termcalico refers to a specific type of unglazed, coarse, plain-woven white fabric made from unbleached, half-processed cotton fibers (much like what we call muslin in the US).
